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tiller

How's the tiller look at this point?

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Re: tiller

Needs to bend considerably more at both midlimbs. Tim

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Re: tiller

Go for being symetrical at this stage. Once you get it symetrical and bending decent taking weight off is really easy. Still, don't go fast, one misstep and you blemish a nice project. A little...

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Here's the latest pic. I can't tell exaactly what it needs, but can see it's a little uneve. Suggestions?

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Your right side has a nice even bend so I suggest you till the entire limb evenly to better balance it to the left limb.The Left is also doing most of it's work close to the handle. I would tiller the...

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Right now it's 60# @ 24", and my target is 55-60# @ 28", so I'm looking good as far as that goes.

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is that short string or long?

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Re: tiller

It's not the actual bowstring I'll be using, in fact it's not a bowstring. But it's braced at about 2", so it's not too far off of where the bowstring will be.FF77

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It looks to me like both limbs could use a little more bend at mid limb. Depends on the front face profile I guess. Is it a severe pyramid shape or just a taper from the fades on out? Sorry if you...

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Re: tiller

What Tom said: the right limb could use a touch more bend at midlimb, the left limb two touches more... I'm assuming from the shadow it's not a severe pyramid. Tim

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Re: tiller

You really should have the thing braced properly by now. If you're working off of a 2" brace height, your draw weight isn't quite what you think it is.I'd like to see a picture of the bow at rest,...

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BOwjunkie, I agree 100%. I try to make the fades match before I move onto the rest of the limb because differences in the fades project out to the rest of the limb so much. They are the foundation to...

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Since I haven't gotten to making strings yet, I have it in the shop this weekend to have a string made (I was a little uncomfortable leaving it...but it seemed a necessary evil - it's in good hands.)...

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Here's how it looks now, with the short string on it. First @ brace height, just under 6", then progressing to 24". I think I see a little flat spot on the right (top) limb, just a little outside the...

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Re: tiller

ff, that looks pretty decent so far. how is the weight? the right fade bends a little sooner than the left one, but that can be accepted if you are really close to weight. The tips could come around a...

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I'm looking for 50-55lbs @ 28", and it's currently drawing about 55lbs @ 24", so I've got a little left to play with. I've shot a few arrows at the short 24" draw. It's taken a slight set all around,...

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Re: tiller

Looks pretty good but like Josh i like the bending to start a little sooner. I like the non bending handle portion to be no more than 8 inches. I mark with a heavy pencil line where I want the bending...

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Re: tiller

tiller not looking too bad but tiller will not always tell the true story, even if an area is not bending that much it still may too much set if too narrow in relation to its thickness. Always a good...

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Re: tiller

Here's one bit of advice. When looking for advice on tillering a bow make sure you copy and paste a pic of the unbraced bow above the braced and drawn images. This way we can see what the limbs are...

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Re: tiller

If it was a perfectly straight stave when you started, at this point I'd work the inner limb of the left limb and the outer limb of the right limb each a little. But I'd still like to see a picture of...

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Re: tiller

Here are a few more pics - unstrung. And I remember Tim asking about the back profile earlier, so I included one of the back of the bow. It's 1.75" at the widest point. It started out with a little...

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